The Boulders At The Worlds

August 21, 2008 – Off to Oz!

It is 2:14 pm, and I’m not quite sure what Maegan Kelleway and Justin Ming are doing at this exact moment, but I’m starting to question exactly HOW much luggage I’m taking down under. The strangest thing in my luggage? It might be the bobble head moose, but more likely it is the ten red clown wigs (more on this in another blog). I also have a DVD player, with some pump-you-up dvds for the endless hours in isolation. Thanks to Marty for Rampage, and to my colleague Brad Daisley for a hilarious early 20th century piece called “Three on a Rope”... it is a classic, and should make everyone appreciate their current snazzy harness.

We all board a flight late this evening in Vancouver, and land early on the 23rd in Sydney. I’m going to be posting regular updates on the progress of our climbers, both on this website (for the Saanichton crowd), and on the Competition Climbing Canada website. Don’t expect much between now and the 23rd, though. I do have my blackberry with me, as I’m helping with team communications, so feel free to send short notes to Justin and Maegan through me.

While the competition starts on August 28th, there will be lots of training, exploring and adventuring occurring between now and then.

It has taken a lot of effort from lots of people to get to the departure gate for the World Youth Climbing Championships. Everyone should be very proud of their efforts, from Justin and Maeghan, to their teammates, our great team of volunteers and staff at the Boulders, and the greater climbing community. We’re part of a Canadian delegation totalling over 50 people, with a large part of the effort being contributed by the highly talented Andrew Wilson, and the energetic Jenny Mah.

Go Canada!

August 23, 2008

We are here! We're tired and slightly stunned, but we're in Sydney and happy. We all knew, conceptually, that Australia is a long way away from Victoria, but our grasp of the obvious was definitely helped by a 15 hour Vancouver-to-Sydney flight. After landing (at 8am Sydney time on Saturday the 23rd), we stored our bags and set off on to take a train and ferry to Taronga Zoo. It is a fabulous place, although we kept a large part of our exploring to the Australian section of the zoo. Sunday will be our chance to see the competition venue, although setting has already started, so we won't be able to see all of it.

August 24, 2008

Sunday morning seemed to come very quickly, and I'm pleased to say that, despite being a bit tired from our epic days of travel and koala-watching, we all seem to be making the slow adjustment to the time difference. Justin says he was tired all day not necessarily because of the time change. He blames it on the 6:30am wake-up call!

We've also figured out a way to calculate what time it is at home: add seven hours to Sydney time, and subtract a whole day. Kind of fun to think about, and should help us all avoid waking up friends and family with phone calls at inappropriate times.

The morning started with breakfast at 7am. Team Canada will, daily, take over half of the hostel's cafe, with 26 climbers, and 30 odd coaches, parents, chaperones, and siblings.

Head Coach Andrew Wilson kicked off the day by congratulating all the climbers on their hard work and dedication, and reminding them how special it is for them to be here. Despite there being lots of "first-timers" on this national team, there is definitely a clear sense of team emerging.

It was pretty fun to be in the venue, and watch the hive of activity. There were coaches from France, Germany and somewhere in Eastern Europe (couldn't recognize the language) checking in. Organizers were labelling tapes containing the national anthems of the more than 30 countries who are expected to participate. (By the way, not sure how many countries ARE participating. The people I spoke with yesterday seemed fairly vague on this point...).

I think the reality of where we are sunk in today when we arrived at the competition venue. Most of the area where the comp will be held has been stripped of holds, and setting has already begun by a team of international route setters. It was screened off, and we were restricted to the gym's "birthday party" climbing area. Still, it isn't quite the same as our birthday party area, as you will see by the pictures (it includes a few 5.12 lead lines!). Justin and Maegan were able to stretch out and climb.

It was energizing to be in the venue, and watch the hive of activity. There were coaches from France, Germany and somewhere in Eastern Europe (couldn't recognize the language) checking in. Organizers were labelling tapes containing the national anthems of the more than 30 countries who are expected to participate. As it was Sunday, a lot of confused birthday party kids and parents were staring and watching (and eating cake, and running around, with staff chasing them... sound familiar?). Some things are always the same, even down under.

As I write, Maegan, Justin and the rest of the team have taken over one of the hostel kitchens, and are fixing dinner for themselves and the parents/chaperones. My use of the word "fixing" can be taken in a number of ways... What they thought was enough tomato sauce to feed 60 people was actually enough KETCHUP to feed, well... I'm sure 10 litres of ketchup goes a long way...

Tomorrow is a cultural hiking trip, or 'walkabout', in the Blue Mountains with an aborigine elder. I'm sure the posts will become more exciting from here on in! Particularly if Maegan and I can find a way to bring a Koala back home... maybe just a baby one. They are appealing creatures - cuddly, but laid-back.

Off to eat dinner. Justin tells me they have also made salad, which seems exactly what I'm in the mood for tonight :).

August 27, 2008

It is late (10:30 pm) on Wednesday August 27th. It has been a fun few days of exploring. Justin climbed in the Blue Mountains, and Maegan explored Bondi Beach.

Today was a quieter day, with a team trip to Manly Beach, and an afternoon meant to be spent quietly, getting ready for the qualifying rounds tomorrow.

We're up early tomorrow, with a 6:45 am breakfast (we're opting for making oatmeal and fruit in the hostel kitchen, rather than the scrambled eggs and ham from the cafeteria). Lunches for the comp are packed, and Justin and Maegan headed straight to their rooms after a relaxation/visualization exercise.

Tomorrow starts with opening ceremonies at 8am, followed by observation of the routes. All 6 caetgories climb at once, in a flash format. We know the start orders: Justin is number 28 in his catergory (his birth date!), and Maegan is 29th in hers.

We expect the afternoon to be done around 3 or 4 pm (10 or 11 pm on Wednesday in Victoria).

Both Justin and Maegan are prepared, excited, and definitely enjoying their trip. Maegan said today she was almost sad for the competition to start because it means the trip is closer to being over.

They've both been taking tons of pictures, and have been getting lots of shopping in! Maegan and I haven't been able to figure out how to kidnap a koala yet, so we might have to bring home the pre-stuffed kind.

This has taken an extraordinary amount of time to type, as I just finished painting my finger nails red and white. It should match the red wigs...

Go Canada!

August 28, 2008 - First day of qualifiers

We're part way through the first day of qualifiers. Both Justin and Maegan climbed strong. Maegan topped her route, and Justin got to the tenth clip (out of 12). Woo hoo!

There is another qualifying round tomorrow. We hope everyone's summer is going well!

August 29, 2008

The difficulty portion of the Worlds is now done for Justin and Maegan. I'm super proud of both of them, as they climbed incredibly well - particularly given it is their first time at Worlds. They are both eager to get back to training in the fall, but are now focussing on supporting their 6 teammates tomorrow at semi-finals, as well as competing in the qualifying rounds of the speed competition.

"Speed climbing?!??!", you say? Yes, speed climbing. Both the USA and Russia send completely separate speed climbing teams, and train seriously for it. I am not sure the Canadian attitude to speed climbing is similar. Andrew Wilson assures me that he has a patented 5-minute speed climbing seminar designed to ensure our entire team is prepared to compete in qualifiers tomorrow... Maegan, Justin and I will take notes and share the salient points with everyone upon our return.

I'm heading to bed, as I'm heaps knackered (does this sound vaguely Aussie?). Maegan and Justin are talking about heading to the Krispy Kreem to celebrate their performances today - but I think there is some discussion about whether this is the best training for their speed climbing debut tomorrow!

Thanks everyone!

Kimanda